A 1987 Martin Margiela portfolio that had been stolen on a train and recovered a year later was auctioned in Paris on July 9, 2026.
The dossier, consisting of 13 A3‑sized pages of drawings, facsimiles and collages, was part of a broader sale of Margiela’s personal archives organised by Maurice Auction in partnership with Kerry Taylor Auctions.
Maurice Auction’s catalogue notes that the portfolio was the first document illustrating the future Maison Martin Margiela, and that Margiela himself had recreated an almost identical version using photocopies after the original was lost.
The auction house estimated the item at €5,000–€8,000, but it closed at €24,700, a figure that surprised both buyers and analysts.
The sale also featured other key pieces from the founder’s career: a 1985 fashion drawing fetched €18,200; a white cotton working blouse sold for €41,600; and a pair of white‑painted Tabi boots from a 1991 exhibition sold for €364,000, making it the most expensive lot.
Fashion commentators have pointed out that the portfolio’s dramatic price reflects the enduring allure of Margiela’s early, avant‑garde sketches, and that the auction marks the first time a foundational document of his brand has entered the public market.
The proceeds from the sale will reportedly be directed to a charity that supports emerging designers, a detail announced by the auction house in its post‑sale press release.